Friday, 29 August 2008

Day 14 - 29th August

Seurre to Bourg en Bresse 75 miles
A long and exhausting day given the mileage and terrain. The weather again was quite cold in the mornings but warmed up considerably in the afternoon. The only thing that the intrepid two don't like is rain and extreme heat as you can imagine they are the enemies of the cyclist. There were many challenging climbs on the way and feet had to be resorted to in a few places.
They noticed a number of interesting features on the route including a twisted spire, like Chesterfield, but with a Burgundian coloured tile roof - spectacular. They stopped for lunch where they should have stayed last night - Louhans - and had the local speciality of poule. Sadly it came boiled and tough which is the way the locals like it - chaque en son goute literally. Louhans is the most lovely ancient town, walled and gated and a stop there is highly recommended.
This is the land of the world famous Poule de Bresse and the countryside is completely teeming with them. They are everywhere including all the maize fields. Let's hope they can snaffle one so Edith can rustle up a roast chicken a la Cold Newton. Yum.
The pedalling pair are now going to have a two day rest which they said they are looking forward to, before embarking on the road to Italy. Gerard is particularly looking forward to eating on an industrial scale. I think they both deserve it.

Thursday, 28 August 2008

Day 13 - 28th August

St Seine L'Abbaye to Seurre - 60 miles
Tremendous progress today. Apart from a steep climb of 1.5 miles first thing in the morning the rest of the day was extremely pleasant and relatively flat. The weather was coolish in the first light of day but thereafter was warm. The new route given by Madam last night was a godsend missing out all the main roads and passing through the glorious Burgundian countryside. There were many monuments dotted around the villages to the victims of the Nazis in 1944.
They are now staying near Beaune and hope tomorrow to do two projected days in one as the going is so good,ending up in Bourg en Bresse. Sounds ambitious but do-able. It will afford them a two days rest before heading towards the Alps. I am glad to report an excellent lunch was taken today which made them sound very cheerful. Burgundy is the gastronomic province of France after all.

Wednesday, 27 August 2008

Day 12 - 27th August

Chatillon to St Seine L'Abbaye 45miles


A hard riding day with a lot of climbing which meant they had to resort to walking which as you can imagine is quite arduous. The local villages seem bereft of places to eat with every restaurant and cafe either missing or en vacance. Lunch was eventually taken which is reported by Gerard as a three course meal - chips,croissants (from breakfast) and sweets rather splendidly by the side of the Seine which this far north is a stream. Plenty of calorie intake is crucial when taking such vigorous exercise so the preoccupation with food is not merely gigantic greed. There was an amusing incident when they were trying to by some juice in a bar. The barkeeper was spectacularly drunk when they arrived and wouldn't serve them food saying he was on holiday. He did on the other hand serve drink whilst on vacation and was quite happy to oblige. The problem came was when Gerard was waiting for change (a 20 euro note), the man promptly disappeared passing out in the back and they had to wait for his wife to return for any money back.
Tonight they are staying in St Seine L'Abbaye which is originally a Cistertian Abbey. The hotel owner has shown them a far less hilly route than originally planned for tomorrow as they have to skirt around Dijon and head towards Beaune which is good news. They are both in fine spirits and are thankful for the much improved weather.

Tuesday, 26 August 2008

Day 11 - 26th August

Troyes to Chatillon sur Seine

A very good ride with wonderful weather. The going was as flat as a pancake which was a huge relief and the whole countryside was teeming with cows. However they made extremely good time and arrived at Chatillon at 3p.m.
The only drawback was there was hardly anywhere to eat lunch. A bar was eventually found and a Croque Monsieur consumed. The bartender apologised for not providing knives and forks as he otherwise would have to charge VAT. The Gallic tax system seems as crazy as ours. The trusty penknife was produced and used to good effect. The penknife has it's own story as it's now considered a family heirloom as it was confiscated from yours truely in 1970 - I'm still resentfull, somewhat, but at least it's been put to good use.
They didn't get the bike serviced yesterday due to everything in Troyes being closed but someone had a quick look to-day and says all the parts are in good working order which is reassuring.
Don't forget to look at the webblog on www.londontojerusalem08.blogspot.com/ and tell your friends.

Monday, 25 August 2008

Day 9-10 24th-25th August

Romilly to Troyes 25 miles
A short and rewarding day for the dynamic duo. The going was flat and smooth, riding next door to the river. They did so well they arrived in Troyes for lunch. The weather was perfect and it's the first decent day the've had since setting off which was extremely happy making.
A day of rest on Monday when they will have the bike serviced, a bike shop has been found. The poor old tandem is suffering due to the adverse conditions and a quick overhaul is required to prevent any problems later. Gerard says he is slathering the moving parts in lubricants but it's starting to squeak. Troyes Cathedral, with it's outstanding Stain glass windows, is going to be visited for some divine inspiration or indeed intervention. Hopefully the next few days the weather will be kinder.

Saturday, 23 August 2008

Day 7 and 8 - 22nd-23rd August

Noyon to Chateau Thierry
The day proved to be almost completely awful. They set off in horrific and torrential rain pelleting down in biblical proportions. They ended up soaked to the skin - literally - and quite worried about the storms by the time they got to Soissons having cycled more than 25 miles. A Tourist Office was found where a kind man took pity on them and gave them a lift to their accomodation in Chateau Thierry. The van they used was very small so they had to sit on the Tandem whilst travelling so therefore Technically they cycled, albeit at 50 kph inside a vehicle.
They are now trying to dry out. Luckily the paniers were dry inside, so small mercies. A glass of the local tipple is being drunk to recover and I'm glad to report it's Champagne. They were looking at the vineyards as they cycled trying to keep their minds off their wetness so it's great to drink their produce.
Let's hope tomorrow brings better luck.




Chateau Thierry to Romilly sur Seine - 50 miles
After yesterdays fairly disastrous day, today proved much better. The weather was more clement although there was still great deal of mist and fog until Montmirail. The going was hilly but not too bad and Gerard reports it might be called pleasant.Lunch of Steak and Chips (Edith's favorite food) was eaten in Sezanne with a rather pleasant view of the Church.
There was still the pressing crisis of very wet shoes from the previous day but as luck would have it there was a shoe shop next to the restaurant where they had the perfect replacement. Edith now equipted with rather smart new footwear they set off for Romilly sur Seine and a minor miracle occured in the form of sunshine. Rather cheered by this they arrived in good time and are looking forward to a short day tomorrow to their rest camp at Troyes.

Thursday, 21 August 2008

Day 6 - 21st August 2008

Albert to Noyon, 60 miles, 5.5hours

They made really good headway today. Weather has at last turned. They had a fine day. The road was flat and straight across the fertile lands of northern France. They are already well ahead with the harvest and starting to lift sugarbeet. They have now left Picardie and are passing through the northern part of the Ile de France (the ancient central part of the French Kingdom). They are in the Department of L’Oise.

Because they made such good time they arrived for a late lunch at Noyon, where they are staying the night. Ate in a small cafe – great steak to build up protein levels!

They are staying next door to Noyon Cathedral, an old medieval building which was heavily damaged during the Great War and restored over the next forty years – it’s huge apparently.

The bicycle has taken a bit of a battering with this bad weather and is creaking a bit. They are looking forward to getting it serviced in Troyes where they are spending two days on Sunday/Monday.

Don’t forget to look at the blog where you can see all the entries to date: www.londontojerusalem08.blogspot.com

I now hand over to my brother Peter for two weeks while I go and look at wildlife in Tanzania.......
Freddie

Wednesday, 20 August 2008

Day 5 - 20th August 2008

St Pol sur Ternoise to Albert, 45 miles, 7 hours

Weather rainy in the morning but not as bad as yesterday. Started clearing in the afternoon. Bicycled through quiet countryside. Flat throughout the day so relatively easy cycling. However, no shops of bars or cafes on the way, so no food for 7 hours – real endurance!! They were going through the heart of the battlefield of the Somme. Saw many more military cemeteries along the way.

They arrived at Albert at 3.30pm and swiftly dived into a bar to have a croquet monsieur and some other food.....

They then went out sightseeing! Saw the Lutyens Memorial to the dead of the Somme and the interesting museum of the trenches next door. Where do they get their energy from?

They sound very cheerful, particularly as the weather is starting to warm. It has been very cold as well as wet so far.

Tuesday, 19 August 2008

Day 4 - Tuesday 19th August

Lumbres- St Pol sur Ternoise, 40 miles, 7 hours

Awful weather sheeting rain and sleet all the way. Started very hilly and then got flatter as they bicycled into the Artois. Their route took them through small villages which was pleasant riding (apart from the horrible weather – and this is August in France!). The problem was that they normally stop at a wayside cafe for a bite to eat but as these were small villages they often had nothing. Being August many were closed for “les vacances”. So they went 30 miles with nothing to eat. Tomorrow they will take bananas with them to overcome this.

Day 3 - Monday 18th August

Calais to Lumbres (Pas de Calais), 30 miles, 7 Hours

Heavy rain and strong wind dogged their ride today. The first few miles in the Pale of Calais was flat. The stopped to have a look at the site of the Field of the Cloth of gold where Sir John Lisle (ancestor) was a courtier to Henry VIII in 1520. Then the hills started again as they bicycled along the old front line of the First world War (Vimy Ridge et al). They were going along small roads and lanes all the way. They saw many cemeteries from both World Wars quietly tucked behind fences and walls. It was a contrast to the beautiful countryside through which they rode.

They are now in Lumbres, still in the Pas de Calais region, staying at an old mill house. Both feeling very chirpy.

Day 2 - Sunday 17th August

Rochester-Dover. 50 miles in 8.5 hours.

Set off this morning in mist and light drizzle but cleared after half an hour. The going was hilly all the way to Dover but no steep climb like yesterday’s up Blackheath Hill. They followed the A2 all the way – this is the old Roman Watling Street and therefore straight as they come. Luckily as it is a Sunday they met few lorries which meant a pleasant enough ride. Also hooray for Kent County Council there was a bicycle lane much of the way.

A cappuccino at Sittingbourne and they a sandwich lunch closer to Canterbury. They aim to have light lunches but giving themselves enough energy for the ride.

Arrived at the ferry through the old ton of Dover which was much nicer than through the new road system most of us now drive on. Crossing was uneventful to Calais. Now safely at their billet. Unfortunately the hotel won’t let them keep the bike indoors so it is outside chained and hopefully under a security camera. Off to dinner at their favourite restaurant on the port.

Day 1 - Saturday 16th August




THEY’RE OFF!!!

The intrepid Gerard and Edith left on their latest odyssey this morning at 9.30 am from Tower Bridge in Central London bound for Jerusalem. Seen off by family and friends – but unfortunately not your intrepid reporter who is recovering from a gallbladder operation.....

They took it easy along the North Downs of Kent, bicycling 40 miles arriving at the historic Chatham Boatyard near Rochester at 5.30 pm having stopped for refreshments along the way. Being East Midlanders they had forgotten how hilly Kent can be – all those chalk downs are quite hard work. They had pleasant weather. No rain and not too warm either. Just as they arrived in Chatham they caught their tyre in a tram rail and had a spill and got some scratches but both seem in very good spirits.

Tomorrow to Calais and La Belle France!